Crossing the Joshua Tree Desert Divide

As I recall, people use Ocotillo for fences in southern Arizona

Ocotillo and yucca in the southern part of the park

Vacations are funny creatures.   They are so jam packed with fun activities, it seems as though they will never end.  Then…poof!  You are home.  Visiting Joshua Tree National Park was like that.   After wonderful short hikes at Hidden Valley and Barker Dam, we’d had a pleasant drive to Key’s Point, the highest spot in the park.  Our next destination was uncertain.

Skull Rock-- need I say more?

Guess what it’s called…

I had no agenda in particular, but I knew we had miles to go before we slept.   We didn’t have time for  more significant hikes.  Still, there was a vast range of desert sights to enjoy.  Skull Rock sounded interesting, so we stopped there.  And what do you know, close to the road, there was a rock with concavities which, when seen from a certain angle, lent it the appearance of a skull.  An alien skull, perhaps, but a skull nonetheless.   Fellow touristas were scrambling around the base of it, posing for silly photos.  Not me.  I am too dignified for that.   Oh, wait…

Goofing around beside Skull Rock

Once in a while I pull out the goofball tourist card

Denise and I wandered around the Skull Rock area with Jackie Chan, finding cool rocks to climb on and bumping into dead end spots from which we couldn’t continue.  It was a seemingly endless maze of rocks and sandy troughs with scrubby desert flora.  Navigation was a challenge, but from any high point we could see the road. I could have stayed there for hours, happily getting lost in the afternoon shadows.

Family shadow portrait: Jackie Chan, moi, and Denise

Family shadow portrait: Jackie Chan, moi, and Denise

Alas, we needed to move on.  The drive trended downhill soon after we turned towards the south entrance of the park.  Major rock outcroppings became rarer, but the views extended further.  It was a stupendous shift between the immediacy of rock piles near Skull Rock and vastness of views stretching dozens of miles across a desert without roads.  My eyes shifted from focusing on a handhold right in front of me to ridges ten miles away.

My lovely bride and Jackie

My lovely bride and Jackie

The Joshua Trees disappeared, but now we saw cholla and ocotillo dotting the landscape.  We had made the transition to the Colorado Desert, a sub-region of the greater Sonoran Desert.  It reminded me of the brief period in my dreaming early adulthood when I lived on a ranch in Arizona, wanting to be a cowboy.  I’d got more than a few barbs in my skin through curiosity then.  Not this time.  We found pullouts designed to look at the views and plant life.  The pleasures of these spots were very different than those at the mazes of rocks above but equally enthralling.

The cholla forest and a slice of eternity behind it

The cholla forest and a slice of eternity behind it

It looks soft until you get up close and painful

It looks soft until you get up close and painful

The wide open spaces were gorgeous, punctuated with occasional rock piles or bumpy ridges alongside smooth looking plains.  We surmised that the smooth part had been the bottom of the ocean in another geological era.  A few times, we got out of the car a few times to stretch our legs and soak up the solitude.  In this part of the park, cars might pass on the road every five minutes or so, but there was nobody else around.

A different angle of the cholla forest

A different angle of the cholla forest

Eventually the dramatic scenery tailed off as we approached the southern entrance to the park.  A couple motorcycle riders sped around us, stopped roadside, then sped around us again ten minutes later.  I can’t help but think they missed some of the beauty of this desert world by focusing on the mundane pleasure of speed.  Maybe I am just getting old, but I wish I had missed nothing.  Joshua Tree National Park is an amazing place, and I hope I am lucky enough to return, perhaps with climbing gear and a tent, perhaps with a four wheel drive rig to check out some side roads with mining history.  So many places to go!  Our drive back to Palm Desert was filled with smiles.

The gorgeous waning light of a perfect day

The gorgeous waning light of a perfect day

I highly recommend a trip to Joshua Tree.   If you visit, carry plenty of water.

About Josh Baker

"The world is big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark.” ― John Muir

Posted on February 21, 2014, in Adventure, Bucket List, Climbing, Desert, Flora and Fauna, General Hiking, Mountains, Outdoors, vacations and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. 1 Comment.

  1. Well, I was going to guess “Yorick,” so I suppose I was close enough 😉
    I always come home tired from a good vacation. Do you get that too?

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